சேது"என்பது இருந்ததே கிடையாது!
தொல்லியல், புவியியல் அறிஞர்களின் தெளிவான கருத்து இது!
அரசு இதன் அடிப்படையிலேயே நீதிமன்றத்தில் கூறியுள்ளது
"டைம்ஸ் ஆப் இந்தியா"வின் படப்பிடிப்பு
புதுடில்லி, ஜூலை 29- "ராம சேது" என ஒன்று இருந்ததே கிடை யாது என்று அரசு கூறியதற்கு அடிப்படையான ஆதாரமே புகழ் பெற்ற தொல்லியல் ஆய்வாளர்கள், பூகோளவியல் அறிஞர்களின் கருத்துக் குறிப் புகள்தான்; இவ்வகை ஆய்வா ளர்களில் ஆர்.எஸ்.எஸ்.கார ரான பி.பி. லால் என்பவரும் அடக்கம். ராமசேனை பாலம் கட்டியது என்பதை மறுத்து இவர் அசைக்க முடியாத ஆதாரங்களைத் தந்துள்ளார்.
(இந்திய அரசின்) பண் பாட்டு அமைச்சகம் மனித வள மேம்பாட்டு அமைச்சகத்திடம் கூறி, இந்திய வரலாற்று ஆய்வு மய்யத்தை (ICHR) அணுகி அதன் கருத்துகளைப் பெறு மாறு கேட்டுக்கொண்டது. இந்திய வரலாற்று ஆய்வு மய்யம் தொல்லியலாளர்களாகிய எச்.டி.சங்காலியா, பி.பி. லால், எச்.பார்க்கர், பூகோளவியலாளர் ஓ.எச்.கே. ஸ்பேட் மற்றும் 1909 ஆம் ஆண்டைய இந்திய அரசு கெஜட்டீர் ஆகியவற்றை மேற்கோள் காண்பித்து பாலம் என்பது கற்பனைப் புனைவு என்றும் அதற்கு வரலாற்று ஆதாரங்கள் எதுவும் கிடை யாது என்றும் தெரிவித்தது.
சங்காலியாவின் ஆராய்ச்சி நூலான வரலாற்றுப் பார்வை யில் ராமாயணம் எனும் நூல் ராமன் தன் அம்புகளால் கட லைப் பணிய வைக்கத் தன் அக்னி அஸ்திர அம்புகளை விட்டது, மனித உருவில் கடல் ராமன் முன்பு தோன்றியது, பாலம் கட்ட உதவி செய்வேன் என உறுதி கூறியது போன்ற வற்றை விளக்குகிறது. பின்னர், வானரங்கள் எல்லா வகை யான மரங்களைக் கொண்டும் (சால், அசுவாபரணா, குடாஜூ, அர்ஜூனா, தடா, ரிலோகா, திமிடா, வில்வகா, சடாபரணா, கார்னிகாரா, சூடா அசோகா முதலியவை) கடலைத் தூர்த் தன. அதன்பின், பெரிய பாறைக் கற்கள் கடலில் போடப்பட்டன. இப்படியாக பெரிய பாலம் ஒன்று (மகா சேது) பத்து யோஜனை அக லம், நூறு யோஜனை நீளத்தில் நளனால் கட்டப் பட்டது என்றும் அந்நூலில் உள்ளது.
மணல்மேடுதான்
இவற்றை ஆதாரமாகக் கொண்டு - நிலவியல் எப்படி இருக்கிறது என்பதையும் சங் காலியா கூறுகிறார்: ராமேசு வரத்தில் தேரி எனப்படும் மணல்மேடுகளைத் தவிர வேறு ஒன்றுமே இல்லை; இவையும் மூன்று வகையாக இருக்கின் றன - செம்பு போன்ற சிகப்பு, பழுப்பு மற்றும் வெண்மை அல்லது சாம்பல் நிறம் - முதல் வகை மிகப் பழைமையானது. அந்தப் பகுதி எப்படி அந்தக் காலத்தில் இருந்தது, அதாவது 5 ஆயிரம், 10 ஆயிரம் ஆண்டு களுக்கு முன் இருந்தது என்ப தைக் காண்பிக்கிறது. இன் றைக்கும் கூட, அந்தப் பகுதி யில், சில பனைமரங்களும் ஒன்றிரண்டு வேறு வகை மரங் களும் மட்டுமே இருக்கின்றன, வேறு எதுவுமே அங்கு முளைத்து வளர்வதில்லை என்பதையும் அவர் குறிப்பிடுகிறார். கல் அந்தப் பகுதியில் காணக் கிடைக்கவில்லை, பல மைல் கள் தூரம் உள்ளே போனால் தான் கல் இருக்கிறது. அங்கே யும்கூட, பாறைக் குன்றுகளை உடைத்துத்தான் கல் பாளங்களைக் கொண்டு வர முடியும் எனவும் எழுதுகிறார்.
பாலத்தின் நீளம் (100 யோஜனா) அகலம் (10 யோஜனா) பற்றி இதிகாசத்தில் என்ன கூறப்பட்டிருந்தாலும், அந்த இடத்தைப் பார்க்கும் எவரும், அந்த இரண்டு முனை களுக்கிடையே உள்ள தூரத்தை அறிந்த எவரும், உலகில் எந்த இடத்திலும் இல் லாத வகையில் மரத்துண்டு களையும் கல்பாளங்க ளையும் வைத்துக் கட்டப்பட்ட பாலம் இதுவாகத்தான் இருக்க முடி யும் என்று எளிதாகச் சொல்லி விடுவார்கள்(!). உண்மையைச் சொன்னால், இது முழுக்க முழுக்கக் கற்பனையில் புனையப்பட்ட மிகப் பெரிய அற்புதம் என்றும் அது போலவே இலங்கையைப் பற்றியும் கருத வேண்டும்.
லால்கூறும் கருத்து
லால் தெளிவாகத் தன் கருத்தைத் தெரிவித்துள்ளார்: தெற்கு ஆசியாவின் ஆகப் பழைய நாகரிகம் எனும் நூலில் (இலங்கையின்) வட முனையான யாழ்ப்பாணம் (இந்திய) எல்லைப் பகுதியிலி ருந்து 30 கி.மீ. தூரமே உள்ளது. இதனிடையில் உள்ள கடல் பகுதி ஆழம் அற்றது, இமய மலைப் பகுதியில் கடல் நீர் பனிக்கட்டியாக உறைந்து இருந்த காலத்திலும் கூட, நிலப் பகுதியுடன் இலங்கை இணைந்திருக்கும் வகையில் சில நிலப் பகுதிகள் தோன்றியிருக்கலாம் என்று எழுதியுள்ளார்.
கவிஞனின் கற்பனை தான் பாலம் என எழுதிப் பாலம் கட்டிய கதையைப் புறம் தள் ளிய பார்க்கர், மிகச் சிறிய அஸ்திவாரத்தின் மேல் தெற்கத்திய இனத்தாரிடம் இந்து மதம் அல்லது ஆரிய கலாச் சாரத்தைப் பரப்பிவிடுவது இலங்கையைப் பொறுத்த மட்டில் அழிந்துபட்டது; எப்படி என்றால், தீவின் பூர்வக் குடிகளின் வழி வந்தவர்கள் - உள்நாட்டுப் பகுதியைச் சேர்ந்த வேத்தர்கள் எப்போதுமே இந்துக் கடவுள்களைக் கும்பிட வில்லை. வரலாறு அறிந்தவரை ஆரிய கலாச்சாரத்தைப் பின் பற்றவில்லை என்று எழுதுகிறார்.
"ஆதாம் பாலம் என்பது பவழப் பூச்சித் தொகுப்புகள் கடல் மட்டம் உயர்ந்ததால் கொல்லப்பட்டுப் பவழப் பாறைகளாகிவிட்டவை" என்றுதான் ஸ்பேட் கூறியுள்ளார்.
------------------------- நன்றி: "டைம்ஸ் ஆஃப் இந்தியா", 29.7.2008
Posted by தமிழ் ஓவியா at 19:14
Friday, August 1, 2008
Thursday, July 31, 2008
It is also about Mr.Rajini
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மலையாளத்தில் வெளியான கத பறயும் போல என்ற படம் தமிழில் குசேலன் என்ற பெயரிலும், தெலுங்கில் குசேலடு என்ற பெயரியும் எடுக்கப்பட்டுள்ளதுபோல இந்தியில் பில்லோ பார்பர் என்ற பெயரில் உருவாகி வருகிறது. இந்த படத்தில் நடிகர் ஷாரூக் கான்தான் சூப்பர் ஸ்டார் நடிகராக நடித்து வருகிறார்.
தமிழிலும், தெலுங்கிலும் குசேலனை எடுத்துள்ள குசேலன் குழுவினர், இந்தியிலும் டப்பிங் செய்து வெளியிட ஏற்கனவே முடிவு செய்திருந்தனர். குசேலன் ஆகஸ்ட் 1ம் தேதி உலகமெங்கிலும் ரீலிஸ் ஆகவுள்ள நிலையில் இந்தி டப்பிங் குசேலனையும் வெளியிடத் தயாராகி வருகிறார்கள். இந்த செய்தியை அறிந்த ஷாரூக் கான் ரொம்பவே கலங்கி விட்டாராம். டப்பிங் குசேலன் வந்தால் ரீமேக் குசேலனின் (பில்லோ பார்பர்) கதி என்னவாகும் ன நினைத்து வருந்திய அவர் ரஜினியிடம் போன் செய்து, தங்களது படத்தை இப்போது வெளியிட்டால், எனது பில்லோ பார்பர் படத்துக்கு ரசிகர்கள் மத்தியில் வரவேற்பு இல்லாமல் போகும். தயவு செய்து பில்லோ பார்பரை வெளியிட்ட பிறகு வெளியிடுங்கள் என்று கேட்டுக் கொண்டாராம்.
சரி... இதுபற்றி யோசித்து விட்டு சொல்கிறேன் என்று சொல்லிவிட்டு இணைப்பை துண்டித்த ரஜினிகாந்த், அடுத்த சில நிமிடங்களில் ஷாரூக்கிற்கு போன் செய்து நீங்கள் சொன்னபடியே செய்கிறேன், என கூறி விட்டாராம். இதனால் நிம்மதி பெருமூச்சு விட்ட ஷாரூக், ரஜினியின் புகழ்பாடத் தொடங்கியிருக்கிறார். ரஜினி சார்தான் ரியல் சூப்பர் ஸ்டார் என்று அவர் மும்பையில் வெளியாகும் பத்திரிகையன்றிற்கு பேட்டியளித்திருக்கிறார்.
மேலும் பில்லோ பார்பர் படத்தின் ஒரு காட்சியில் ஷாரூக்கானும், ரஜினிகாந்தும் சந்திப்பது போன்ற காட்சியை எடுத்த முடிவு செய்துள்ள ஷாரூக், அதுபற்றியும் ரஜினியிடம் கேட்டிருக்கிறார். ஆனால் ரஜினி தரப்பில் இருந்து இன்னும் பாசிட்டிவான பதில் வரவில்லை என்கிறார் ஷாரூக்.
There are 5 Comments about this news published in a blog as follows::
சினிமா நிருபர் said...
இந்த செய்தி குறித்த உங்களது கருத்துக்களை பின்னூட்டத்தில் தெரிவியுங்கள் நண்பர்களே...!
July 27, 2008 6:23 AM
Anonymous said...
சும்மாவே தாங்க முடியாது.. இப்பயெல்லாம் போட்டா .....
July 27, 2008 6:36 AM
கிரி said...
வட இந்திய நடிகர்களுக்கு தென் இந்தியர்கள் என்றால் இப்போதும் நக்கல் தான்..இது அவர்களுடைய!!! இந்திய!!! திரைப்பட விழாவிலும் தெரிந்தது.
பாவம் புண்ணியம் பார்க்காம போட்டு வாங்கணும் இவங்களை...ரஜினிக்கு ஊடகங்கள் அங்கே பெரும் வரவேற்ப்பு இருப்பது போல காட்டி வருகின்றன. இதுவும் உண்மையா என்று இதன் மூலம் தெரிந்து விடும். இருந்தால் (அனைவரும்) காலரை தூக்கி விட்டு கொள்ளலாம் இல்லை என்றால் வாயை மூடிட்டு (ரசிகர்கள்)இருந்துக்கலாம்
July 27, 2008 8:50 AM
சினிமா நிருபர் said...
பின்னூட்டத்துக்கு நன்றி கிரி...!
July 27, 2008 7:56 PM
rapp said...
அப்போ இந்தியில இவரோட குசேலன ரிலீஸ் பண்ணப்போறவங்க கதி என்னவாம்
July 28, 2008 3:01 AM
மலையாளத்தில் வெளியான கத பறயும் போல என்ற படம் தமிழில் குசேலன் என்ற பெயரிலும், தெலுங்கில் குசேலடு என்ற பெயரியும் எடுக்கப்பட்டுள்ளதுபோல இந்தியில் பில்லோ பார்பர் என்ற பெயரில் உருவாகி வருகிறது. இந்த படத்தில் நடிகர் ஷாரூக் கான்தான் சூப்பர் ஸ்டார் நடிகராக நடித்து வருகிறார்.
தமிழிலும், தெலுங்கிலும் குசேலனை எடுத்துள்ள குசேலன் குழுவினர், இந்தியிலும் டப்பிங் செய்து வெளியிட ஏற்கனவே முடிவு செய்திருந்தனர். குசேலன் ஆகஸ்ட் 1ம் தேதி உலகமெங்கிலும் ரீலிஸ் ஆகவுள்ள நிலையில் இந்தி டப்பிங் குசேலனையும் வெளியிடத் தயாராகி வருகிறார்கள். இந்த செய்தியை அறிந்த ஷாரூக் கான் ரொம்பவே கலங்கி விட்டாராம். டப்பிங் குசேலன் வந்தால் ரீமேக் குசேலனின் (பில்லோ பார்பர்) கதி என்னவாகும் ன நினைத்து வருந்திய அவர் ரஜினியிடம் போன் செய்து, தங்களது படத்தை இப்போது வெளியிட்டால், எனது பில்லோ பார்பர் படத்துக்கு ரசிகர்கள் மத்தியில் வரவேற்பு இல்லாமல் போகும். தயவு செய்து பில்லோ பார்பரை வெளியிட்ட பிறகு வெளியிடுங்கள் என்று கேட்டுக் கொண்டாராம்.
சரி... இதுபற்றி யோசித்து விட்டு சொல்கிறேன் என்று சொல்லிவிட்டு இணைப்பை துண்டித்த ரஜினிகாந்த், அடுத்த சில நிமிடங்களில் ஷாரூக்கிற்கு போன் செய்து நீங்கள் சொன்னபடியே செய்கிறேன், என கூறி விட்டாராம். இதனால் நிம்மதி பெருமூச்சு விட்ட ஷாரூக், ரஜினியின் புகழ்பாடத் தொடங்கியிருக்கிறார். ரஜினி சார்தான் ரியல் சூப்பர் ஸ்டார் என்று அவர் மும்பையில் வெளியாகும் பத்திரிகையன்றிற்கு பேட்டியளித்திருக்கிறார்.
மேலும் பில்லோ பார்பர் படத்தின் ஒரு காட்சியில் ஷாரூக்கானும், ரஜினிகாந்தும் சந்திப்பது போன்ற காட்சியை எடுத்த முடிவு செய்துள்ள ஷாரூக், அதுபற்றியும் ரஜினியிடம் கேட்டிருக்கிறார். ஆனால் ரஜினி தரப்பில் இருந்து இன்னும் பாசிட்டிவான பதில் வரவில்லை என்கிறார் ஷாரூக்.
There are 5 Comments about this news published in a blog as follows::
சினிமா நிருபர் said...
இந்த செய்தி குறித்த உங்களது கருத்துக்களை பின்னூட்டத்தில் தெரிவியுங்கள் நண்பர்களே...!
July 27, 2008 6:23 AM
Anonymous said...
சும்மாவே தாங்க முடியாது.. இப்பயெல்லாம் போட்டா .....
July 27, 2008 6:36 AM
கிரி said...
வட இந்திய நடிகர்களுக்கு தென் இந்தியர்கள் என்றால் இப்போதும் நக்கல் தான்..இது அவர்களுடைய!!! இந்திய!!! திரைப்பட விழாவிலும் தெரிந்தது.
பாவம் புண்ணியம் பார்க்காம போட்டு வாங்கணும் இவங்களை...ரஜினிக்கு ஊடகங்கள் அங்கே பெரும் வரவேற்ப்பு இருப்பது போல காட்டி வருகின்றன. இதுவும் உண்மையா என்று இதன் மூலம் தெரிந்து விடும். இருந்தால் (அனைவரும்) காலரை தூக்கி விட்டு கொள்ளலாம் இல்லை என்றால் வாயை மூடிட்டு (ரசிகர்கள்)இருந்துக்கலாம்
July 27, 2008 8:50 AM
சினிமா நிருபர் said...
பின்னூட்டத்துக்கு நன்றி கிரி...!
July 27, 2008 7:56 PM
rapp said...
அப்போ இந்தியில இவரோட குசேலன ரிலீஸ் பண்ணப்போறவங்க கதி என்னவாம்
July 28, 2008 3:01 AM
What is mistake done by Rajini to Tamil nadu?
thatstamil.com ல ஒரு வாசகரின் கருத்து இது.
//1995 - batsha:
இது காசு கொடுத்து சேர்த்த கூட்டம் இல்லை...அன்பால தானா சேர்ந்த கூட்டம்....!
2007 - Sivaji:
பன்னிங்கதான் கூட்டமா வரும்....!
1996 - during election:
ஜெயலலிதாக்கு ஒட்டு போட்டா தமிழ் நாட்டை ஆண்டவனால கூட காப்பாத்த முடியாது....!
2004 - during parliment election and film fraternity thanks giving function to jayalalitha:
சகோதரி ஜெயலலிதா ஆதரவு பெற்ற கட்சிக்கு ஒட்டு போட்டேன்....!
சகோதரி ஜெயலலிதா ஒரு தைரியலக்ஷ்மி....!
2008 - hogenakkal fasting meet:
நம்ம உரிமைய தடுக்குறவங்கள உதைக்க வேண்டாமா?
2008 -During kususelan release - A TV appel to kannada people:
அய்யா மன்னிச்சுடுங்க.....என் தப்பை உணர்ந்துட்டேன்....தயவு செய்ஞ்சு என் படத்தை ரிலீஸ் பண்ண அனுமதி கொடுங்க.....! ஐய்யா....அம்மா....!
இந்த மாதிரி ஒரு பச்சோந்தி பின்னாடி அவனுடைய ரசிகர்கள் என்ன நினைப்புல போறானுங்க....? அவனுக்குத்தான் மூளை இல்லேன்னா உங்களுக்கு எங்கடா போச்சு அறிவு கெட்ட மடயனுங்களா? //
Do you think this comment is correct? I think most of the political and film world personals using Rajini for their benefits. TamilNadu Actors Association is also keeping silent , It always keeping silent when ever a personal problem comes to a senior actor like Rajini, Ajit, etc.
Here is a another version of comment.
குசேலன் படத்தை பெங்களூருவில் திரையிடுவதில் எந்த சிக்கலும் இல்லை என்று குசேலன் படக்குழுவை சேர்ந்தவர்கள் தெரிவித்துள்ளனர்.
ஒகேனக்கல் பிரச்னையில் கர்நாடகாவை கண்டித்து தமிழ் திரையுலகம் சார்பில் சென்னையில் நடந்த உண்ணாவிரத போராட்டத்தில் சூப்பர் ஸ்டார் ரஜினிகாந்த் கலந்து கொண்டார். அப்போது அவர் பேசுகையில், இந்த பிரச்னைக்கு காரணமானவர்களை அடிக்க வேண்டும் என்று காட்டமாக கூறினார். இது கன்னட ரக்ஷன வேதிகே அமைப்பை சேர்ந்தவர்களை பெரிய மன கஷ்டத்தை கொடுத்துள்ளதாம். இதனால் ரஜினிகாந்த கன்னட மக்களிடம் நிபந்தனையற்ற மன்னிப்பு கேட்க வேண்டும் என்று அப்போதில் இருந்தே வேதிகே அமைப்பு கோரி வருகிறது,
இந்நிலையில் குசேலன் படத்தை கர்நாடகாவில் திரையிடுவதை அனுமதிக்க மாட்டோம் என்று கூறியுள்ள வேதிகே அமைப்பு, மீறி திரையிடப்படும் தியேட்டர்கள் அடித்து நொறுக்கப்படும் என்றும் எச்சரிக்கை விடுத்துள்ளது. இதனால் குசேலன் படத்தை வாங்கியுள்ள தியேட்டர்களின் உரிமையாளர்கள் கலக்கத்தில் இருக்கிறார்கள். இதற்கிடையில் கன்னட வெறியர்களின் இந்த மிரட்டலைத் தொடர்ந்து குசேலன் திரையிடப்படவுள்ள தியேட்டர்களுக்கு கூடுதல் பாதுகாப்பு போடப்பட்டு வருகிறது. பாதுகாப்பு அதிகரித்திருப்பதால் குசேலன் படத்தை கர்நாடக மாநிலத்தில் திரையிடுவதில் எந்த சிக்கலும் இல்லை. திட்டமிட்டபடி ஆகஸ்ட் 1ம் தேதி குசேலன் படம் உலகமெங்கிலும் ரீலிஸ் ஆகும் என்று குசேலன் படக்குழுவை சேர்ந்தவர்கள் கூறினார்கள்.
Posted by சினிமா நிருபர் at 6:19 AM
Labels: Kuselan, rajini, rajinikanth
2 Comments:
சினிமா நிருபர் said...
இந்த செய்தி குறித்த உங்களது கருத்துக்களை பின்னூட்டத்தில் தெரிவியுங்கள் நண்பர்களே...!
July 25, 2008 6:26 AM
கிரி said...
படம் வெளியிட்ட பிறகு எப்படியும் திரை அரங்கை நொறுக்க போறாங்க
July 25, 2008 3:02 PM
So over all nobody helps Rajini, because of his popularity ,he survives in Tamil Nadu, Really it is pitiable phase of a nice person.But one thing we have to remember that Rajini is not a Kannadian , he works as a conductor in Karnataka, Thats all.
Now in TamilNadu his profession is cine actor.Is he ever asked the people of Tamil Nadu to Worship him?
//1995 - batsha:
இது காசு கொடுத்து சேர்த்த கூட்டம் இல்லை...அன்பால தானா சேர்ந்த கூட்டம்....!
2007 - Sivaji:
பன்னிங்கதான் கூட்டமா வரும்....!
1996 - during election:
ஜெயலலிதாக்கு ஒட்டு போட்டா தமிழ் நாட்டை ஆண்டவனால கூட காப்பாத்த முடியாது....!
2004 - during parliment election and film fraternity thanks giving function to jayalalitha:
சகோதரி ஜெயலலிதா ஆதரவு பெற்ற கட்சிக்கு ஒட்டு போட்டேன்....!
சகோதரி ஜெயலலிதா ஒரு தைரியலக்ஷ்மி....!
2008 - hogenakkal fasting meet:
நம்ம உரிமைய தடுக்குறவங்கள உதைக்க வேண்டாமா?
2008 -During kususelan release - A TV appel to kannada people:
அய்யா மன்னிச்சுடுங்க.....என் தப்பை உணர்ந்துட்டேன்....தயவு செய்ஞ்சு என் படத்தை ரிலீஸ் பண்ண அனுமதி கொடுங்க.....! ஐய்யா....அம்மா....!
இந்த மாதிரி ஒரு பச்சோந்தி பின்னாடி அவனுடைய ரசிகர்கள் என்ன நினைப்புல போறானுங்க....? அவனுக்குத்தான் மூளை இல்லேன்னா உங்களுக்கு எங்கடா போச்சு அறிவு கெட்ட மடயனுங்களா? //
Do you think this comment is correct? I think most of the political and film world personals using Rajini for their benefits. TamilNadu Actors Association is also keeping silent , It always keeping silent when ever a personal problem comes to a senior actor like Rajini, Ajit, etc.
Here is a another version of comment.
குசேலன் படத்தை பெங்களூருவில் திரையிடுவதில் எந்த சிக்கலும் இல்லை என்று குசேலன் படக்குழுவை சேர்ந்தவர்கள் தெரிவித்துள்ளனர்.
ஒகேனக்கல் பிரச்னையில் கர்நாடகாவை கண்டித்து தமிழ் திரையுலகம் சார்பில் சென்னையில் நடந்த உண்ணாவிரத போராட்டத்தில் சூப்பர் ஸ்டார் ரஜினிகாந்த் கலந்து கொண்டார். அப்போது அவர் பேசுகையில், இந்த பிரச்னைக்கு காரணமானவர்களை அடிக்க வேண்டும் என்று காட்டமாக கூறினார். இது கன்னட ரக்ஷன வேதிகே அமைப்பை சேர்ந்தவர்களை பெரிய மன கஷ்டத்தை கொடுத்துள்ளதாம். இதனால் ரஜினிகாந்த கன்னட மக்களிடம் நிபந்தனையற்ற மன்னிப்பு கேட்க வேண்டும் என்று அப்போதில் இருந்தே வேதிகே அமைப்பு கோரி வருகிறது,
இந்நிலையில் குசேலன் படத்தை கர்நாடகாவில் திரையிடுவதை அனுமதிக்க மாட்டோம் என்று கூறியுள்ள வேதிகே அமைப்பு, மீறி திரையிடப்படும் தியேட்டர்கள் அடித்து நொறுக்கப்படும் என்றும் எச்சரிக்கை விடுத்துள்ளது. இதனால் குசேலன் படத்தை வாங்கியுள்ள தியேட்டர்களின் உரிமையாளர்கள் கலக்கத்தில் இருக்கிறார்கள். இதற்கிடையில் கன்னட வெறியர்களின் இந்த மிரட்டலைத் தொடர்ந்து குசேலன் திரையிடப்படவுள்ள தியேட்டர்களுக்கு கூடுதல் பாதுகாப்பு போடப்பட்டு வருகிறது. பாதுகாப்பு அதிகரித்திருப்பதால் குசேலன் படத்தை கர்நாடக மாநிலத்தில் திரையிடுவதில் எந்த சிக்கலும் இல்லை. திட்டமிட்டபடி ஆகஸ்ட் 1ம் தேதி குசேலன் படம் உலகமெங்கிலும் ரீலிஸ் ஆகும் என்று குசேலன் படக்குழுவை சேர்ந்தவர்கள் கூறினார்கள்.
Posted by சினிமா நிருபர் at 6:19 AM
Labels: Kuselan, rajini, rajinikanth
2 Comments:
சினிமா நிருபர் said...
இந்த செய்தி குறித்த உங்களது கருத்துக்களை பின்னூட்டத்தில் தெரிவியுங்கள் நண்பர்களே...!
July 25, 2008 6:26 AM
கிரி said...
படம் வெளியிட்ட பிறகு எப்படியும் திரை அரங்கை நொறுக்க போறாங்க
July 25, 2008 3:02 PM
So over all nobody helps Rajini, because of his popularity ,he survives in Tamil Nadu, Really it is pitiable phase of a nice person.But one thing we have to remember that Rajini is not a Kannadian , he works as a conductor in Karnataka, Thats all.
Now in TamilNadu his profession is cine actor.Is he ever asked the people of Tamil Nadu to Worship him?
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Inflation ????
The benchmark indices, Sensex and Nifty, fell 18% and 17% respectively during the month of June 2008. Among sectoral indices, the BSE Realty performed unfavorably with a negative return of 35% during the month.
Equity MarketContinuously The month of June witnessed the highest inflation in India, since 13 years, at 11.4%. Crude oil prices continued to rule at about $140 per barrel mark. A few of the large banks in the US continued to write down their portfolios with more warnings of further write offs. FIIs sold shares worth nearly Rs. 110 bn on a net basis during the month.
In the back-drop of these developments, the markets fell by 17% during the month. The near normal monsoons till date, in-line corporate results and the better-than-expected IIP numbers for the month of April 08, failed to stem the downside.
Crude prices have risen by 12% in June 08 (17% rise in previous month) and are higher by 39% in the current calendar year. The prices have more than doubled as compared to May 2007. Crude prices have remained at elevated levels despite initiatives by Saudi Arabia and USA to curb the same. Saudi Arabia has announced that it will be increasing daily output to 9.7mn barrels v/s 9mn currently.
During the month, the Government finally took the decision of raising retail fuel prices and increased prices of petrol, diesel and LPG by Rs.5, Rs.3 and Rs.50 respectively. Prices were raised primarily to reduce the burden on the Oil Marketing Companies who were helpless at the rising crude prices globally.
The corporate profit growth has been the main pillar that has been supporting valuations for Indian stocks. In FY09, there are multiple headwinds for the corporates in the form of a slowing economy, high raw material and fuel prices (crude and other commodities) as well as higher interest rates.
The IIP (Index of Industrial production) for April 2008 grew by 7%, as compared to 11.3% in the same month last year. This was as compared to a 3% growth in March 08 and provided some relief to the markets.
Consensus figures indicate FY09 Sensex estimates at Rs. 990. The implied growth of about 14% over this period and a PEG ratio of less than 1x look reasonable at the current point of time (excluding the embedded value, valuations will be more attractive).
Sectors like IT, Pharmaceuticals, Hotels and Mining are preferred among other sectors.
Debt Markets
Headline WPI inflation for the week ended 21st June 2008 came at a 13-year high of 11.63%. The situation with respect to Headline WPI inflation continues to look grim as we expect the double digit inflation to continue throughout this calendar year.
On June 24, RBI raised the Repo rate with immediate effect by 50 bps to stand at 8.50%, while the CRR has been increased in two steps of 25 bps each from the fortnights of 5th July and 19th July 2008 to ultimately stand at 8.75% after the second round of adjustment.
We expect another 50 bps increase in the Repo rate going forward with a realistic chance of the first 25 bps on the next policy date on July 29. CRR may also be increased dependant on liquidity flows, with the objective of keeping the system at the upper end of the interest rate corridor in the near term.
Bond market is likely to stay bearish for a long time with the heightened uncertainty of more RBI action in the near future. 10-year bond yield closed up at around 9.10% on 4th July with the cut-off yield on the 14-year bond that was auctioned on 4th July coming in at 10.03%. We see the possibility of the 10-year benchmark yield to move higher in the days to come as inflation trends further worsen. The broad indicative range for the rest of this FY trade could be at around 8.50-9.25%. With the uncertainties of monetary policy having increased, the outlook for the bond market may undergo some revisions later.
Forex Markets
The case for a weakening of the Rupee remains a base case scenario at this stage given muted capital inflows and a rising Trade Deficit owing to exceptionally high oil prices. We do not expect the flows to improve substantially this year though one can expect to see some modest improvement in the second half of FY09. The Dollar for Oil Bond swap that is currently being conducted will however help to provide some support to the Rupee and cap the depreciation pressure. Only a significant drop in the international crude oil prices or a sudden unexpected increase in foreign fund flows into India can help reverse the current negative sentiments on the Rupee.
We expect the Rupee to be in a broad range of Rs. 42-43.50 per $ in FY09 although the Rupee can test Rs 44-44.10 per $ in case of any further sharp increase in crude oil prices, heightened political instability and in the event of a massive reversal of flows.
Disclaimer: In the preparation of the material contained in this document, Kotak Mahindra Bank Ltd. (Kotak Bank), has used information that is publicly available, including information developed inhouse. Some of the material used in the document may have been obtained from members/persons other than the Kotak Bank and/or its affiliates and which may have been made available to Kotak Bank and/or its affiliates. Information gathered & material used in this document is believed to be from reliable sources. Kotak Bank however does not warrant the accuracy, reasonableness and/or completeness of any information. For data reference to any third party in this material no such party will assume any liability for the same. Kotak Bank and/or any affiliate of Kotak Bank does not in any way through this material solicit any offer for purchase, sale or any financial transaction/commodities/products of any financial instrument dealt in this material. All recipients of this material should before dealing and or transacting in any of the products referred to in this material make their own investigation, seek appropriate professional advice. We have included statements/opinions/recommendations in this document which contain words or phrases such as "will", "expect" "should" and similar expressions or variations of such expressions, that are "forward looking statements". Actual results may differ materially from those suggested by the forward looking statements due to risks or uncertainties associated with our expectations with respect to, but not limited to, exposure to market risks, general economic and political conditions in India and other countries globally, which have an impact on our services and / or investments, the monetary and interest policies of India, inflation, deflation, unanticipated turbulence in interest rates, foreign exchange rates, equity prices or other rates or prices, the performance of the financial markets in India and globally, changes in domestic and foreign laws, regulations and taxes and changes in competition in the industry. By their nature, certain market risk disclosures are only estimates and could be materially different from what actually occurs in the future. As a result, actual future gains or losses could materially differ from those that have been estimated. Kotak Bank (including its affiliates) and any of its officers directors, personnel and employees, shall not liable for any loss, damage of any nature, including but not limited to direct, indirect, punitive, special, exemplary, consequential, as also any loss of profit in any way arising from the use of this material in any manner. The recipient alone shall be fully responsible/ are liable for any decision taken on the basis of this material. The investments discussed in this material may not be suitable for all investors. Any person subscribing to or investing in any product/financial instruments should do so on the basis of and after verifying the terms attached to such product/financial instrument. Financial products and instruments are subject to market risks and yields may fluctuate depending on various factors affecting capital/debt markets. Please note that past performance of the financial products and instruments does not necessarily indicate the future prospects and performance thereof. Such past performance may or may not be sustained in future. Kotak Bank (including its affiliates) or its officers, directors, personnel and employees, including persons involved in the preparation or issuance of this material may; (a) from time to time, have long or short positions in, and buy or sell the securities mentioned herein or (b) be engaged in any other transaction involving such securities and earn brokerage or other compensation in the financial instruments/products/commodities discussed herein or act as advisor or lender / borrower in respect of such securities/financial instruments/products/commodities or have other potential conflict of interest with respect to any recommendation and related information and opinions. The said persons may have acted upon and/or in a manner contradictory with the information contained here. No part of this material may be duplicated in whole or in part in any form and or redistributed without the prior written consent of Kotak Bank. This material is strictly confidential to the recipient and should not be reproduced or disseminated to anyone else.
Mutual Fund investments are subject to market risk. Please read the offer document carefully before investing.
Equity MarketContinuously The month of June witnessed the highest inflation in India, since 13 years, at 11.4%. Crude oil prices continued to rule at about $140 per barrel mark. A few of the large banks in the US continued to write down their portfolios with more warnings of further write offs. FIIs sold shares worth nearly Rs. 110 bn on a net basis during the month.
In the back-drop of these developments, the markets fell by 17% during the month. The near normal monsoons till date, in-line corporate results and the better-than-expected IIP numbers for the month of April 08, failed to stem the downside.
Crude prices have risen by 12% in June 08 (17% rise in previous month) and are higher by 39% in the current calendar year. The prices have more than doubled as compared to May 2007. Crude prices have remained at elevated levels despite initiatives by Saudi Arabia and USA to curb the same. Saudi Arabia has announced that it will be increasing daily output to 9.7mn barrels v/s 9mn currently.
During the month, the Government finally took the decision of raising retail fuel prices and increased prices of petrol, diesel and LPG by Rs.5, Rs.3 and Rs.50 respectively. Prices were raised primarily to reduce the burden on the Oil Marketing Companies who were helpless at the rising crude prices globally.
The corporate profit growth has been the main pillar that has been supporting valuations for Indian stocks. In FY09, there are multiple headwinds for the corporates in the form of a slowing economy, high raw material and fuel prices (crude and other commodities) as well as higher interest rates.
The IIP (Index of Industrial production) for April 2008 grew by 7%, as compared to 11.3% in the same month last year. This was as compared to a 3% growth in March 08 and provided some relief to the markets.
Consensus figures indicate FY09 Sensex estimates at Rs. 990. The implied growth of about 14% over this period and a PEG ratio of less than 1x look reasonable at the current point of time (excluding the embedded value, valuations will be more attractive).
Sectors like IT, Pharmaceuticals, Hotels and Mining are preferred among other sectors.
Debt Markets
Headline WPI inflation for the week ended 21st June 2008 came at a 13-year high of 11.63%. The situation with respect to Headline WPI inflation continues to look grim as we expect the double digit inflation to continue throughout this calendar year.
On June 24, RBI raised the Repo rate with immediate effect by 50 bps to stand at 8.50%, while the CRR has been increased in two steps of 25 bps each from the fortnights of 5th July and 19th July 2008 to ultimately stand at 8.75% after the second round of adjustment.
We expect another 50 bps increase in the Repo rate going forward with a realistic chance of the first 25 bps on the next policy date on July 29. CRR may also be increased dependant on liquidity flows, with the objective of keeping the system at the upper end of the interest rate corridor in the near term.
Bond market is likely to stay bearish for a long time with the heightened uncertainty of more RBI action in the near future. 10-year bond yield closed up at around 9.10% on 4th July with the cut-off yield on the 14-year bond that was auctioned on 4th July coming in at 10.03%. We see the possibility of the 10-year benchmark yield to move higher in the days to come as inflation trends further worsen. The broad indicative range for the rest of this FY trade could be at around 8.50-9.25%. With the uncertainties of monetary policy having increased, the outlook for the bond market may undergo some revisions later.
Forex Markets
The case for a weakening of the Rupee remains a base case scenario at this stage given muted capital inflows and a rising Trade Deficit owing to exceptionally high oil prices. We do not expect the flows to improve substantially this year though one can expect to see some modest improvement in the second half of FY09. The Dollar for Oil Bond swap that is currently being conducted will however help to provide some support to the Rupee and cap the depreciation pressure. Only a significant drop in the international crude oil prices or a sudden unexpected increase in foreign fund flows into India can help reverse the current negative sentiments on the Rupee.
We expect the Rupee to be in a broad range of Rs. 42-43.50 per $ in FY09 although the Rupee can test Rs 44-44.10 per $ in case of any further sharp increase in crude oil prices, heightened political instability and in the event of a massive reversal of flows.
Disclaimer: In the preparation of the material contained in this document, Kotak Mahindra Bank Ltd. (Kotak Bank), has used information that is publicly available, including information developed inhouse. Some of the material used in the document may have been obtained from members/persons other than the Kotak Bank and/or its affiliates and which may have been made available to Kotak Bank and/or its affiliates. Information gathered & material used in this document is believed to be from reliable sources. Kotak Bank however does not warrant the accuracy, reasonableness and/or completeness of any information. For data reference to any third party in this material no such party will assume any liability for the same. Kotak Bank and/or any affiliate of Kotak Bank does not in any way through this material solicit any offer for purchase, sale or any financial transaction/commodities/products of any financial instrument dealt in this material. All recipients of this material should before dealing and or transacting in any of the products referred to in this material make their own investigation, seek appropriate professional advice. We have included statements/opinions/recommendations in this document which contain words or phrases such as "will", "expect" "should" and similar expressions or variations of such expressions, that are "forward looking statements". Actual results may differ materially from those suggested by the forward looking statements due to risks or uncertainties associated with our expectations with respect to, but not limited to, exposure to market risks, general economic and political conditions in India and other countries globally, which have an impact on our services and / or investments, the monetary and interest policies of India, inflation, deflation, unanticipated turbulence in interest rates, foreign exchange rates, equity prices or other rates or prices, the performance of the financial markets in India and globally, changes in domestic and foreign laws, regulations and taxes and changes in competition in the industry. By their nature, certain market risk disclosures are only estimates and could be materially different from what actually occurs in the future. As a result, actual future gains or losses could materially differ from those that have been estimated. Kotak Bank (including its affiliates) and any of its officers directors, personnel and employees, shall not liable for any loss, damage of any nature, including but not limited to direct, indirect, punitive, special, exemplary, consequential, as also any loss of profit in any way arising from the use of this material in any manner. The recipient alone shall be fully responsible/ are liable for any decision taken on the basis of this material. The investments discussed in this material may not be suitable for all investors. Any person subscribing to or investing in any product/financial instruments should do so on the basis of and after verifying the terms attached to such product/financial instrument. Financial products and instruments are subject to market risks and yields may fluctuate depending on various factors affecting capital/debt markets. Please note that past performance of the financial products and instruments does not necessarily indicate the future prospects and performance thereof. Such past performance may or may not be sustained in future. Kotak Bank (including its affiliates) or its officers, directors, personnel and employees, including persons involved in the preparation or issuance of this material may; (a) from time to time, have long or short positions in, and buy or sell the securities mentioned herein or (b) be engaged in any other transaction involving such securities and earn brokerage or other compensation in the financial instruments/products/commodities discussed herein or act as advisor or lender / borrower in respect of such securities/financial instruments/products/commodities or have other potential conflict of interest with respect to any recommendation and related information and opinions. The said persons may have acted upon and/or in a manner contradictory with the information contained here. No part of this material may be duplicated in whole or in part in any form and or redistributed without the prior written consent of Kotak Bank. This material is strictly confidential to the recipient and should not be reproduced or disseminated to anyone else.
Mutual Fund investments are subject to market risk. Please read the offer document carefully before investing.
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Perfume History , Perfume Glossary & Tips for wearing
The word perfume comes from the Latin phrase, "per" meaning "through" and "fumus" meaning smoke." The French later gave the name parfum to the pleasant smells that drift through the air from burning incense.
The first form of perfume was incense. The Mesopotamians first discovered incense about 4,000 years ago. Ancient cultures burned many kinds of resins, bums and woods at their religious ceremonies. They often soaked the fragrant woods and resins in water and oil, and rubbed their bodies with the liquid. They also embalmed the dead with these perfumes. Since the Egyptians believed that the soul ascended into heaven, relatives saw to it that perfume accompanied the spirit.
Perfumed oils were applied to the skin for either cosmetic or medicinal purposes. During the Old and Middle Kingdoms, perfumes were reserved exclusively for religious rituals such as cleansing ceremonies. The use of perfume then spread to Greece, Rome, and the Islamic world. And it was the Islamic community that kept the use of perfumes since the spread of Christianity led to a decline in the use of perfume. With the fall of the Roman Empire, perfume's influence decreased. Perfume enjoyed huge success during the seventeenth century. Perfumed gloves became popular in France and in 1656; the guild of glove and perfume-makers was established. The use of perfume in France grew steadily. The court of Louis XV was even named "the perfumed court" due to the scents, which were applied daily not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture.
In the 19th century, two important changes occurred in the Western world of fragrance. France became the leader in reestablishing the therapeutic uses of fragrance.
Today there are over 30,000 designer perfumes on the market and perfumes are no longer for the wealthy. The perfume industry has undergone several changes in technique, material and style. All of which have created the modern fragrance industry, one that still incorporates creativity, mystique and romance along with marketing to appeal to the masses.
Perfume Glossary
Absinthe: It is a strong herbal liqueur distilled with herbs like anise, licorice, hyssop, veronica, fennel, lemon balm, angelica and wormwood.
Absolute: Also known as an essence, this is the material extracted from a plant or flower using one of various solvents.
Accord: Perfume accords are a balanced blend of three or four notes which lose their individual identity to create a completely new, unified odor impression.
Aerosol: It�s the spraying and/or foaming of liquid or solid materials by propellant agents from pressurized cans.
Aftershave: Less strong, it is the most popular choice and lasts for 2 to 3 hours. Aftershaves are kinder to the skin than EDT's. Those with very sensitive skin should use aftershave balms.
Agar wood: From the Aquilaria tree, and also called Oud or Aloes wood. The tree, when attacked by a common fungus, produces an aromatic resin that has long been used in the Middle East as a source of incense and perfume, now considered endangered in the wild due to over-harvesting.
Alcohol: It�s used in the perfume industry as a solvent for the production of lotions. An often-used alcohol is ethyl alcohol.
Aldehydic: It�s the term for the odor-effect produced by the use of short-chain aliphatic aldehydes. This effect can be described as fatty, watery or even "snuffed candle". When concentrated, aldehydes are extremely powerful and pungent. Aldehydes are used in all perfume types, especially those that feature elegant feminine notes.
Amber: In perfumery, this usually refers to plant compounds (such as labdanum) or synthetics, which have an ambergris-like scent. In general, it�s a heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note.
Ambrette: Oil obtained from these seeds has a musk-like odor and is frequently used as a substitute for true musk.
Animalic: Refers to animal-derived ingredients such as civet, ambergris, musk, and castoreum. These are usually replaced by synthetics in modern perfumery. In large amounts, many of these notes are unpleasant, but in smaller amounts they provide depth and a sensual feel to a fragrance.
Anise: An annual herb of the parsley family, grown for its fruits (aniseed), which have a strong, licorice-like flavor.
Anosmia: The inability to smell odors. Many people have selective anosmias, for instance, total anosmia can occur as the result of injury or illness but is relatively rare and partial anosmia is a common phenomenon where people have selective insensitivity or blindness to particular materials smells or groups of smells. As for Benzyl Salicylate and Macro cyclic musks are common examples. Some people on first exposure to a new material may claim not to be able to smell it but after several exposures their ability to smell it improves.
Aqueous: It�s a recent designation for scents that are based more on a concept of a �watery� smell than an actual scent.
Aroma Chemicals: Chemicals that have a smell and/or taste and are used in perfumes or flavors. Should note be confused with the term Aromatic Chemicals that refers to the Benzene ring structure found in many organic compounds.
Aromachology: The science dedicated to the study of the interrelationship between psychology and aroma.
Aromatic: The term in perfumery refers to the rich aroma and odor of fragrances, scents and perfumes.
Aromatherapy: Therapy with aroma. It�s the art and science of using essential oils to heal common ailments and complaints. It particularly helps with stress or emotionally triggers problems such as insomnia and headaches.
Ayurvedic: It�s the ancient Hindu art of medicine, herbs to prolong life.
Back Notes: The back note is the third and last phase of a perfume's life on the skin, or evaporation. It contains the lasting ingredients, such as woods, resins, animal and crystalline substances. In heavy perfumes (chypre and Oriental notes, for instance) the back note is so strongly accented that it is discernible in the top-note, or first impression.
Balsamic: is a fragrance impression that can be described as sweet, soft and warm. Basically, balsamic notes result from the use of balsams and resins in perfume compositions. The Oriental perfumes in particular are characterized by balsamic ingredients.
Balsams: are vicious secretions of plants that emerge when the plant's outer layers are injured. Unlike the resinoids, balsams do not require an extraction process prior to their being used in perfumery.
Bitter: is the fragrance impression that corresponds to bitterness in terms of taste. It is produced by a combination of roots (such as vetiver), herbs (such as wormwood), animal notes (such as in leather) and others. Bitter accents are to be found mainly in masculine fragrances.
Bouqet: is a mixture of various floral notes. Often, the bouquet is the most important ingredient of the middle-note in a perfume. Bouquetting is the embellishment, harmonizing and rounding-off of a composition.
Camphoraceous: notes have a fresh, clean, medicinal smell. In Nature, they are present in lavandin, rosemary, and conifer oils, among others. These notes are widely used in the perfume industry in the perfuming of bath products.
Chypre: Today, chypre is the collective term for a group of perfumes which get their character through the combination of a fresh Eau de Cologne-like top note and a foundation that comprises as main elements oak moss, labdanum and patchouly. Many warm, erotic, sensual perfumes belong to the chypre family. One of the classics is "Chypre/Coty," a perfume that has been on the market since the beginning of this century.
Citrus Notes: have a fresh, light character. They come from the family of the agrumen oils (bergamot, lemon, lime, mandarin, orange, bitter orange). In addition to these there are a number of synthetic substances that have the fresh character of citrus in different variations.
Coniferous: is the odor impression that is reminiscent of pine, spruce, juniper and others of this family. Conifer oils are mainly used in bath products and in masculine fragrances.
Composition or Compound: Every perfume is a composition of harmoniously adjusted individual components. The characteristics of the individual ingredients are used to create a new and unique overall character in which the individual characteristics of the ingredients recede in favor of the combination but at the same time, are not themselves obliterated.
Creation: is the making of a new perfume oil corn position. Creative work is an art which in nevertheless influenced by economic considerations, so perhaps "skilled craft" would be a more, appropriate description.
Crystalline: A certain amount of crystalline fragrance sub stances can be dissolved, without problems, in the, liquid ingredients of a perfume oil. In general they possess good fixative properties. But to( high a percentage of crystalline substances, an( especially low temperatures, can cause what i known as "crystallizing-out"-the appearance o crystals in the liquid.
Distillation: by steam is the most commonly-use( process for the production of essential oils. In this procedure, steam flows through the distillation material and sweeps the essential oils along with it. After cooling, the distillation water is separated from the essential oil in so-called Florentine flasks.
Dry: is the term for the odor-effect, the reverse o "sweet" or "warm", achieved through the use o ingredients such as woods, mosses, herbs and sc on. Dry notes are used mainly in masculine per fumes and are particularly useful as fresh, day time fragrances.
Eau De Cologne: is a solution of approximately 3 % to 5 % perfume oil in an alcohol/water mix. The classical "eau de Cologne" is a composition of fresh, light, volatile essential oils (pre dominantly citrus oils) which contains few, if any fixatives. Eau de Cologne is intended to be refreshing, and has a limited perfuming effect.
Eau De Parfum: is a solution of perfume oil (15 %-18 %) in alcohol (85 % to 82%).
Eau De Toilette: is a solution of 4 % -8 % perfume oil in alcohol.
Earthy: is the adjective used to describe the fragrance impression of earth, forest-soil, mold, dust, etc. Vetiver and patchouly are well-known essential oils possessing earthy characteristics. Earthy accents in perfumes are not pronounced, always subtle.
Encapsulation: To encapsulate, in the perfume industry sense of the word, means to enclose perfume oils in tiny gelatin capsules. These capsules can be applied to the skin together with an alcoholic perfume. When the skin is rubbed, the capsules are broken and the scent of the oil is released, "renewing" the perfume. Tests involving this method of perfuming have been made with textiles.
Enfleurage: is a process for the extraction of valuable plant extracts. Plates of glass, covered on both sides with animal fat into which blossoms have been pressed, are placed on wooden frames. Spent blossoms are constantly replaced until the at is saturated with fragrance substance. Then, he blossom oil is separated from the fat through extraction. This procedure is rarely used today, because it is so costly.
Eortic: Perfumes which, in addition to their general )leasing and harmonious qualities, are also accented. with warm animal notes in combination with certain flower oils, are said to have an erotic effect. Much depends on the user, though-and he circumstances!
Essences: are alcoholic or aqueous plant extracts. They are hardly ever used in the perfume industry today, but they are widely employed in the cosmetic and flavor industries.
Essential Oils: (Ethereal) oils are extracted from various plant parts through pressing or steam distillation. They are natural mixtures of various chemical substances. Unlike fatty oils, they evaporate without leaving a residue.
Evaluation: means the selection of fragrances, for a specific purpose, from a number of available alternatives. In recent years a whole new profession has emerged in the perfume industry consisting of experts who specialize in this work. They are known as evaluators. Evaluation is work which requires not only talent, knowledge and training, but also a feeling for what the market wants at any particular time. The evaluators (women, in many instances) are an important link between the creators and the users of perfumes.
Expression: is an especially mild process for the extraction of essential oils, used in cases where steam distillation would modify or damage the end-product. Expression is used mainly for the extraction of citrus oils.
Extracion: is the process of removing raw materials from plant and animal substances through the use of various solvents. Most of the valuable natural fragrance materials are produced in this manner.
Extrait: generally, means the most concentrated form of perfume sold over the counter. It is a solution of 15 % -30 % perfume oil in high-grade alcohol.
Fatty: is the same name for the odor that suggests oil, lard, wax and so on. In small doses, these notes are reminiscent of the smell of human skin. They can therefore contribute to the erotic effect of a scent.
Femme: In the context of perfumery, femininity is a quality that is judged subjectively. Any perfume that underlines the womanly attributes of its wearer can be termed feminine, though much depends on the rapport between fragrance and user. Perfumes with floral accents are generally considered to be especially feminine. Of course, this does not prevent women from using scents that are considered to have a masculine character, but the majority uses those with feminine characteristics.
Fixing: is a process that promotes the retention of the fragrance on the skin as long as possible. To achieve this, heavy, non-volatile substances are used which develop their full fragrance intensities only very slowly, and maintain them for longer periods. Substances are also used for this purpose which have no strong odors of their own, but have the ability to make other fragrances last longer. Good substantivity is a characteristic of every well-constructed fragrance composition. It should be noted that an excessive amount of fixative in a perfume is no guarantee of good retention, because substances can hinder one another in their fragrance diffusion.
Floral: Today, over half of the branded perfumes are characterized by the adjective "floral." They contain well-defined flower notes (lily of the valley, for example, as in DIORISSIMO by Christian Dior), or a whole bouquet of floral effects, as in QUELQUES FLEURS by Houbigant. As a matter of fact, all perfumes contain floral notes in some quantity.
Floral-Fruity: perfumes are those that have a noticeably fruity element, especially in the top note, as an accessory to the main theme, which is always floral. Excesses of fruitiness are to be avoided as they would suggest food-flavor rather than perfume.
Formula: The formula of a perfume compound gives full details of its components-quality and quantity wise-and is used like a recipe for preparing the mixture. To formulate a perfume can take many, many years of experiments. Formulas, holding a company's Know How, is jealously-guarded trade secrets, sometimes handed down from generation to generation.
Fougere: is a fantasy term in perfumery. It is the name of a combination of fresh herbaceous lavender notes on a mossy foundation. Fougere notes occur in many fantasy fragrances-especially in masculine perfumes.
Fragrance Blotters: are narrow strips of absorbent paper about 15 centimeters long with which scent samples are taken and smelled. On smelling strips, the evaporation of fragrance materials and perfume oils can be observed in the different phases they go through. Final judgement of a perfume must always be made on the skin, however.
Fragance Components (Ingredients): All the materials which the perfumers put together to form a perfume composition are known as fragrance components. These are uniform chemical substances, natural products and simple or complex mixtures - the so-called bases and specialties.
Fragrance Diffusion: Fragrance development is the general behavioral pattern of a perfume in the hands of its user. A good perfume should perform three functions. These are:
* Immediate impact on opening the bottle.
* Noticeable emanation from the skin in all phases of fragrance evaporation.
* Noticeable scent in the area that surrounds the user.
Fragrance Material: The fragrance material industry is a branch of the chemical industry. This industry includes the producers of natural and synthetic fragrance materials and perfume oils. The fragrance material industry is a supplier to the manufacturers of perfumes, cosmetics and other products of this nature.
Fragrance Materials, Natural: are products of plant and animal origin, extracted by different processes. Some examples are essential oils, absolutes, concretes, resins, balsams and tinctures.
Synthetic Fragrance Materials: are produced from chemical raw materials. Half-synthetic fragrance zaterials are chemically-processed isolates from natural products.
Fragrance Organ: is the term for the working area of the perfumer, in which the fragrance materials he uses in his work are arranged around him in tiers, like the pipes of an organ around an organist.
Fresh: in relation to the effect of a perfume, is a subjective feeling that can be caused by different fragrance impressions. In European regions, freshness is generally associated with lemon, lavender and green notes, light floral components: light and clear elements, mostly. In other regions, North America for example, sweet and powdery perfumes are also considered as fresh.
Fruity: is the fragrance impression of natural fruit odors, such as raspberry, apple, plum, etc. Their sensual role in perfumery is only to produce nuances. However, single fruit odors do become fashionable, from time to time, in such products as shampoos. Exaggerated doses of fruit notes give perfumes the effect of being "edible," i.e. the opposite of erotic.
Gas Chromatograph: is an instrument for the analysis of organic chemical mixtures. In a spiral ass or metal column, packed with porous material, the various components are separated according to physical properties such as polarity ad vapor pressure. The signals received are amplified and, with the help of a printer, printed onto a chromatogram.
Grasse: is a town in Southern France, behind the Riviera. The town has a editerranean climate, which is well-suited for the cultivation of plants that produce perfume raw materials. For many years, Grasse has been one of the principal centers in the world for the production of perfume materials.
Green: is the general term for the odors of grass, leaves, stems and so on. Green fragrances exist in many different nuances. They are widely used in perfumery for the purpose of giving special accents to top-notes.
Harmony: is the tuning of all the components of a perfume so that no single element in any phase of the fragrance evaporation becomes so prominent that it could be considered unpleasant. It is easy to achieve harmony between similarsmelling substances but quite difficult between the contrasting elements which are often introduced into a perfume to give originality and character. Bringing these warring elements into harmony is a challenging task for the perfumer.
Hay-Like: notes are used mainly in "Nature" fragrances, in different ranges of application-for instance, in medicinal bath-products. Masculine perfumes also can contain hay-like components (Fougere). The synthetic substance with a hay-like odor that is most important in the industry is coumarin.
Herbaceous: Many fragrance substances have herbaceous components, and are reminiscent of herbs and drugs. Well-known, and often-used examples are mugwort, sage, rosemary and lavender. Herbaceous accents are widely used in masculine perfumes. Heart or Middle Note: The heart is the second, middle phase of a perfume's fragrance evaporation, occuring after the top note fades away. It is mainly produced by floral, spicy or woody components and represents, as its name indicates, the heart of the perfume.
Heavy: Fragrances in which the least-volatile ingredients such as mosses and animal notes dominate are called heavy perfumes. Since these ingredients are part of the top note, a heavy perfume can be identified as such at first impact. Heavy substances are used predominantly in chypre notes.
Infusion: is the production of flower oils by extraction at 65 degrees centigrade with the use of alcohol.
Ingredient: An ingredient is one of the parts that go to make up a mixture.
Intensity: The intensity, or fragrance strength of a perfume compound is dependent on the strength of the individual ingredients, and the skill that is exerted in the blending of these components.
Jasminey: Perfumes that contain the scent of the jasmine blossom as a principal component are termed jasminey. There are many interpretations of the jasmine note, which range from natural blossom odors to stylized, fantasy bases.
Lavender Oil: possesses a dry-fresh, herbaceous odor. It is used in many perfumes, especially in masculine notes.
Leather Notes: as well as tobacco notes, play a significant part in the masculine perfumes. Both natural expressions and fantasy interpretations of this theme exist and are used in the perfume industry. Leather notes also play a part in feminine perfumes; for instance, in the chypre family.
Light: perfume notes owe their character mainly to fresh, citrus, floral, fruity and green components. They contain practically no sweet, balsamic or sultry elements. It used to be difficult, but today, the perfumer has the means to give good fixation also to perfumes of light character.
Maceration: is a procedure by which blossom oils are extracted with the aid of warm fats. It is similar to enfleurage.
Masculine: as well as feminine, in the perfume sense, are subjective fragrance impressions. Normally, the term "masculine," is applied to fragrance favored by men. These contain dry notes of tobbaco, spices, mosses and woods. They are generally less floral than feminine perfumes, and often contain a high percentage of fresh ingredients. In the past few years, masculine and feminine notes have come closer and closer together.
Maturity: A perfume must mature for four to eight week,. before it can go on sale. This time is necessary tc allow the individual ingredients to blend, bringing the fragrance to its full development.
Metallic: notes are used in perfumes to produce cool, clean effects. They are used in nuances, and very seldom occur dominantly.
Mint-Like: Fragrance notes which are reminiscent of peppermint and spearmint are used in perfumery to produce special fresh effects in the top-note.
Mixing plant: The stage in the production of perfume in which the concentrated perfume oils are mixed, on a large scale, according to the perfumer's recipe, is known as the mixing or compounding plant.
Modifying: means varying an existing, basic fragrance theme by changing some ingredients or introducing new, additional nuances. The result may impress a lay-person as a new perfume, but the expert will recognize a mere variation on an old theme.
Mossy: odors of different kinds of tree mosses (especially oak moss) play an important part in nearly all perfume types. They are of special significance in the chypre notes. Mossy nuances are very complex and can have, besides the basic moss element, algae-like, leathery, woody and other characteristics. Their especially good fixing qualities, as well as their ability to give fragrances substance and depth, make them indispensable.
Musk: is a secretion of the musk deer. The material extracted from musk-sacs has a strong animal-smell. The natural product, as well as chemicals with musk-like odors, are of great significance in the perfume industry. They give perfumes a warm, erotic note and have outstanding fixing characteristics. Perfumes that are based on musk notes are especially subject to fashionable trends.
Napthalene-Like: notes are reminiscent of mothballs. These odors are found in animal products. Their significance in perfumery is minimal.
Narcotic: perfumes often contain high percentages of heavy blossom fragrances (jasmine, tuberose, for example), and animalic components. The narcotic effect of natural flower scents is at its peak at the time when they fade. Careful dosing of "narcotic" components is necessary if a perfume is not to have an obtrusive or tiring effect.
Nauncers: are fragrance materials that are not the main fragrance carriers in a composition, but are used to support and round these carriers off, or produce special effects which contribute to the all around picture of a fragrance. Obtrusive: Perfumes can be obtrusive when they are used to excess. Similarly, an ingredient can obtrude if the fragrance composition is not well balanced.
Oriental: is the term for perfumes containing ingredients that are reminiscent of fragrances from the East. Such ingredients can be exotic blossom notes, spices, balsams, resins, and animalic components. The character of the Oriental perfumes is such that they are mostly used as so-called winter or evening perfumes.
Perfume: "per fumum" - comes from the Latin, meaning "through the smoke." In ancient times, fragrant resins were burned as incense offerings that was the origin. Today, we understand perfume to be a solution containing 15% to 30% perfume oils and 85% to 70% alcohol, respectively.
Perfume Oil or Perfume Compound: Perfume oil is a concentrated mixture of fragrance substances, which is used for the perfuming of various products.
Perfumer: is the term for the creator of fragrance compositions. His qualifications are: an odormemory which is the result of long training, the ability to differentiate between hundreds of odors, knowledge of the reciprocal action of individual fragrance substances in the composition, and creative talent. The perfumer's education generally lasts for five years.
Pheromones: are chemical substances, which make communication possible between living beings. They are mainly significant as a medium which insects use for sexual attraction. Most pheromones are odorless to human beings.
Pomade: is a substance that is produced through the effleurage process. In this procedure, animal fat is saturated with blossom fragrance. The mixture of fat and blossom oil is the pomade. It is either used straight or processed into absolute from pomade. Parts of the fatty odor attach to the fragrance of the blossom oils, giving the products made by this process a unique character.
Powdery: is the fragrance effect produced by the interaction of long lasting, mossy, woody, sweet and crystalline elements. Many perfumes leave a powdery overall impression after evaporation of the fresh and floral ingredients.
Resinoids: are extracts from resins or plant parts (except for the blossom). In addition to the essential oils, they contain ingredients such as the waxes and resins, which are soluble in whatever solvent is being used in the particular process. In order to facilitate the use of resinoids, high-boiling, odorless solvents are often added to them. Resinoids often have a dark color and especially good fixing properties.
Resins: are mainly solid or semi-solid organic plant secretions. They must go through a cleaning process.
Rounding-Off: means harmonizing and binding together the principal ingredients of a perfume, either with odorants that are closely related odor-wise, or with other adjuncts that also fit into the picture and can therefore help to produce a balanced, harmonious whole.
Sensory Adaptation: is the tendency of the human sense of smell to become less and less able to perceive a particular fragrance the longer it is exposed to it. When the sense of smell is "adapted" to a fragrance, it is no longer able to recognize it. Yet it recovers quickly from this fatigue.
Sensual: is the term for a perfume with an erotically stimulating effect. An accentuated portion of animalic components and exotic blossom notes is usually to be found in such perfumes. Properly used, many perfumes can produce pleasant emotions and moods, since the sense of smell is directly connected with the part of the brain in which feelings and sexual behavior are controlled.
Smell: is the sensory perception of odorous organic compounds. It occurs in the act of inhaling, and so air is the carrier.
Smoky: notes are used mainly in masculine perfumes to create natural leather effects. In modern leather notes the smoky notes are thrust into the background by animalic notes but the old, classical leather perfumes contain noticeable smoky notes, which originate from birch tar oil.
Solvents: are liquids, virtually odor- and colorless, used in perfumery for the dilution of perfume oils. The most commonly used solvent is ethyl alcohol. Some solvents also have fixative properties.
Sour: A perfume is said to smell sour when it has aged prematurely owing to inappropriate storage. When this happens, chemical alterations occur which are irreversible, and the perfume must be considered "off."
Spicy: fragrance notes are used in the perfume industry in the form of essential oils from almost all the well-known spices. For example, cinnamon and clove are used widely in Oriental perfumes. Many masculine perfumes contain portions of spice-oils-for example: marjoram, coriander and pepper.
Splash Cologne: is light, watery alcohol/perfume oil solution of 1%-3% perfume oil in 99%-97% alcohol, respectively. They are used generously, for refreshment for the whole body, after the shower or bath for example. They have a subtle perfuming effect, and the notes are fresh and clean. Some countries especially favor this application, and two prime examples are France and Spain.
Stability: is a perfume's resistance to the harmful effects of light and oxygen. In proper storage (protected from light at room temperature, closed bottle) perfumes keep an average of six months without deterioration. Many keep for a much longer period.
Substantivity: The lasting properties of a fragrance are dependent on its degree of volatility. Heavy, nonvolatile substances are used for the fixing of perfume compositions.
Sweet: elements exist in many perfumes, in differing amounts, especially in Oriental and heavy chypre perfumes. The best-known example of a sweet-smelling natural product is the extract of the vanilla bean.
Tincure: is cold-processed alcoholic extract from natural products. They were much favored in former times, but their use today is on the decline for economic reasons.
Tobacco Notes: natural and synthetic, are predominantly used in masculine perfumes. In addition to the pure tobacco note, scents such as honey and plum, which are used to flavor tobacco, also play a part.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: is an oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, which is one of today's most dynamic natural skin care ingredients. It has been clinically shown to reverse photo aging (wrinkles and age spots) and boost the skin's collagen production for smoother and firmer skin. In addition, Vitamin C inhibits UVA and UVB radiation-induced damage, also resulting in younger looking skin.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E): is an antioxidant derived from plant oils.
Wheat Germ Extract: used in cosmetics because of its large Vitamin E content. This extract is obtained from the wheat kernel embryo separated in milling.
Witch Hazel Extract: a natural extract from the Hamamelis plant, fights free radicals. It is also non-drying, soothing and has astringent properties.
Xanthan Gum: A natural wax is a carrier agent and thickener.
Zinc Oxide: has been used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin. It provides an excellent barrier to the sun and other irritants. It is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial. When used in sunscreen preparations, it can contribute to and/or increase SPF. It has UVA and UVB absorption characteristics. Zinc Oxide is obtained from zinc ore, a commonly found mineral, and is relatively non allergenic. 2-Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate), derived from balsam of Peru, cocoa leaves, cinnamon leaves and storax trees, is a sunscreen with superior UV absorption capability. 2-Ethylhexyl Salicylate (octyl salicylate) is a sunscreen for UVB absorption.
Tips For Wearing Perfume
* When you apply perfumes, apply them to pulse points such as the folds in the crook of your elbow, back of knees, wrist and neck.
* Make sure you do not rub wrists together as this crushes the smell.
* If you want to keep your perfume as fresh as the day you bought it, keep the bottle in a cool, dark place.
* Go for lighter scents during the hotter weather and keep the stronger scents for the drier, cool weather. Keep bottles tightly stopped, away from direct heat and out of sunlight.
* Try spraying perfume on the air and walk into it, to have a head to toe experience.
* People with oily skin tend to have stronger fragrance as compared to those with dry skin.
* Apply perfume right after you shower. Your pores will be open and your skin will be warm.
* Some perfumes come in blue or opaque bottles and these store perfume well.
The first form of perfume was incense. The Mesopotamians first discovered incense about 4,000 years ago. Ancient cultures burned many kinds of resins, bums and woods at their religious ceremonies. They often soaked the fragrant woods and resins in water and oil, and rubbed their bodies with the liquid. They also embalmed the dead with these perfumes. Since the Egyptians believed that the soul ascended into heaven, relatives saw to it that perfume accompanied the spirit.
Perfumed oils were applied to the skin for either cosmetic or medicinal purposes. During the Old and Middle Kingdoms, perfumes were reserved exclusively for religious rituals such as cleansing ceremonies. The use of perfume then spread to Greece, Rome, and the Islamic world. And it was the Islamic community that kept the use of perfumes since the spread of Christianity led to a decline in the use of perfume. With the fall of the Roman Empire, perfume's influence decreased. Perfume enjoyed huge success during the seventeenth century. Perfumed gloves became popular in France and in 1656; the guild of glove and perfume-makers was established. The use of perfume in France grew steadily. The court of Louis XV was even named "the perfumed court" due to the scents, which were applied daily not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture.
In the 19th century, two important changes occurred in the Western world of fragrance. France became the leader in reestablishing the therapeutic uses of fragrance.
Today there are over 30,000 designer perfumes on the market and perfumes are no longer for the wealthy. The perfume industry has undergone several changes in technique, material and style. All of which have created the modern fragrance industry, one that still incorporates creativity, mystique and romance along with marketing to appeal to the masses.
Perfume Glossary
Absinthe: It is a strong herbal liqueur distilled with herbs like anise, licorice, hyssop, veronica, fennel, lemon balm, angelica and wormwood.
Absolute: Also known as an essence, this is the material extracted from a plant or flower using one of various solvents.
Accord: Perfume accords are a balanced blend of three or four notes which lose their individual identity to create a completely new, unified odor impression.
Aerosol: It�s the spraying and/or foaming of liquid or solid materials by propellant agents from pressurized cans.
Aftershave: Less strong, it is the most popular choice and lasts for 2 to 3 hours. Aftershaves are kinder to the skin than EDT's. Those with very sensitive skin should use aftershave balms.
Agar wood: From the Aquilaria tree, and also called Oud or Aloes wood. The tree, when attacked by a common fungus, produces an aromatic resin that has long been used in the Middle East as a source of incense and perfume, now considered endangered in the wild due to over-harvesting.
Alcohol: It�s used in the perfume industry as a solvent for the production of lotions. An often-used alcohol is ethyl alcohol.
Aldehydic: It�s the term for the odor-effect produced by the use of short-chain aliphatic aldehydes. This effect can be described as fatty, watery or even "snuffed candle". When concentrated, aldehydes are extremely powerful and pungent. Aldehydes are used in all perfume types, especially those that feature elegant feminine notes.
Amber: In perfumery, this usually refers to plant compounds (such as labdanum) or synthetics, which have an ambergris-like scent. In general, it�s a heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note.
Ambrette: Oil obtained from these seeds has a musk-like odor and is frequently used as a substitute for true musk.
Animalic: Refers to animal-derived ingredients such as civet, ambergris, musk, and castoreum. These are usually replaced by synthetics in modern perfumery. In large amounts, many of these notes are unpleasant, but in smaller amounts they provide depth and a sensual feel to a fragrance.
Anise: An annual herb of the parsley family, grown for its fruits (aniseed), which have a strong, licorice-like flavor.
Anosmia: The inability to smell odors. Many people have selective anosmias, for instance, total anosmia can occur as the result of injury or illness but is relatively rare and partial anosmia is a common phenomenon where people have selective insensitivity or blindness to particular materials smells or groups of smells. As for Benzyl Salicylate and Macro cyclic musks are common examples. Some people on first exposure to a new material may claim not to be able to smell it but after several exposures their ability to smell it improves.
Aqueous: It�s a recent designation for scents that are based more on a concept of a �watery� smell than an actual scent.
Aroma Chemicals: Chemicals that have a smell and/or taste and are used in perfumes or flavors. Should note be confused with the term Aromatic Chemicals that refers to the Benzene ring structure found in many organic compounds.
Aromachology: The science dedicated to the study of the interrelationship between psychology and aroma.
Aromatic: The term in perfumery refers to the rich aroma and odor of fragrances, scents and perfumes.
Aromatherapy: Therapy with aroma. It�s the art and science of using essential oils to heal common ailments and complaints. It particularly helps with stress or emotionally triggers problems such as insomnia and headaches.
Ayurvedic: It�s the ancient Hindu art of medicine, herbs to prolong life.
Back Notes: The back note is the third and last phase of a perfume's life on the skin, or evaporation. It contains the lasting ingredients, such as woods, resins, animal and crystalline substances. In heavy perfumes (chypre and Oriental notes, for instance) the back note is so strongly accented that it is discernible in the top-note, or first impression.
Balsamic: is a fragrance impression that can be described as sweet, soft and warm. Basically, balsamic notes result from the use of balsams and resins in perfume compositions. The Oriental perfumes in particular are characterized by balsamic ingredients.
Balsams: are vicious secretions of plants that emerge when the plant's outer layers are injured. Unlike the resinoids, balsams do not require an extraction process prior to their being used in perfumery.
Bitter: is the fragrance impression that corresponds to bitterness in terms of taste. It is produced by a combination of roots (such as vetiver), herbs (such as wormwood), animal notes (such as in leather) and others. Bitter accents are to be found mainly in masculine fragrances.
Bouqet: is a mixture of various floral notes. Often, the bouquet is the most important ingredient of the middle-note in a perfume. Bouquetting is the embellishment, harmonizing and rounding-off of a composition.
Camphoraceous: notes have a fresh, clean, medicinal smell. In Nature, they are present in lavandin, rosemary, and conifer oils, among others. These notes are widely used in the perfume industry in the perfuming of bath products.
Chypre: Today, chypre is the collective term for a group of perfumes which get their character through the combination of a fresh Eau de Cologne-like top note and a foundation that comprises as main elements oak moss, labdanum and patchouly. Many warm, erotic, sensual perfumes belong to the chypre family. One of the classics is "Chypre/Coty," a perfume that has been on the market since the beginning of this century.
Citrus Notes: have a fresh, light character. They come from the family of the agrumen oils (bergamot, lemon, lime, mandarin, orange, bitter orange). In addition to these there are a number of synthetic substances that have the fresh character of citrus in different variations.
Coniferous: is the odor impression that is reminiscent of pine, spruce, juniper and others of this family. Conifer oils are mainly used in bath products and in masculine fragrances.
Composition or Compound: Every perfume is a composition of harmoniously adjusted individual components. The characteristics of the individual ingredients are used to create a new and unique overall character in which the individual characteristics of the ingredients recede in favor of the combination but at the same time, are not themselves obliterated.
Creation: is the making of a new perfume oil corn position. Creative work is an art which in nevertheless influenced by economic considerations, so perhaps "skilled craft" would be a more, appropriate description.
Crystalline: A certain amount of crystalline fragrance sub stances can be dissolved, without problems, in the, liquid ingredients of a perfume oil. In general they possess good fixative properties. But to( high a percentage of crystalline substances, an( especially low temperatures, can cause what i known as "crystallizing-out"-the appearance o crystals in the liquid.
Distillation: by steam is the most commonly-use( process for the production of essential oils. In this procedure, steam flows through the distillation material and sweeps the essential oils along with it. After cooling, the distillation water is separated from the essential oil in so-called Florentine flasks.
Dry: is the term for the odor-effect, the reverse o "sweet" or "warm", achieved through the use o ingredients such as woods, mosses, herbs and sc on. Dry notes are used mainly in masculine per fumes and are particularly useful as fresh, day time fragrances.
Eau De Cologne: is a solution of approximately 3 % to 5 % perfume oil in an alcohol/water mix. The classical "eau de Cologne" is a composition of fresh, light, volatile essential oils (pre dominantly citrus oils) which contains few, if any fixatives. Eau de Cologne is intended to be refreshing, and has a limited perfuming effect.
Eau De Parfum: is a solution of perfume oil (15 %-18 %) in alcohol (85 % to 82%).
Eau De Toilette: is a solution of 4 % -8 % perfume oil in alcohol.
Earthy: is the adjective used to describe the fragrance impression of earth, forest-soil, mold, dust, etc. Vetiver and patchouly are well-known essential oils possessing earthy characteristics. Earthy accents in perfumes are not pronounced, always subtle.
Encapsulation: To encapsulate, in the perfume industry sense of the word, means to enclose perfume oils in tiny gelatin capsules. These capsules can be applied to the skin together with an alcoholic perfume. When the skin is rubbed, the capsules are broken and the scent of the oil is released, "renewing" the perfume. Tests involving this method of perfuming have been made with textiles.
Enfleurage: is a process for the extraction of valuable plant extracts. Plates of glass, covered on both sides with animal fat into which blossoms have been pressed, are placed on wooden frames. Spent blossoms are constantly replaced until the at is saturated with fragrance substance. Then, he blossom oil is separated from the fat through extraction. This procedure is rarely used today, because it is so costly.
Eortic: Perfumes which, in addition to their general )leasing and harmonious qualities, are also accented. with warm animal notes in combination with certain flower oils, are said to have an erotic effect. Much depends on the user, though-and he circumstances!
Essences: are alcoholic or aqueous plant extracts. They are hardly ever used in the perfume industry today, but they are widely employed in the cosmetic and flavor industries.
Essential Oils: (Ethereal) oils are extracted from various plant parts through pressing or steam distillation. They are natural mixtures of various chemical substances. Unlike fatty oils, they evaporate without leaving a residue.
Evaluation: means the selection of fragrances, for a specific purpose, from a number of available alternatives. In recent years a whole new profession has emerged in the perfume industry consisting of experts who specialize in this work. They are known as evaluators. Evaluation is work which requires not only talent, knowledge and training, but also a feeling for what the market wants at any particular time. The evaluators (women, in many instances) are an important link between the creators and the users of perfumes.
Expression: is an especially mild process for the extraction of essential oils, used in cases where steam distillation would modify or damage the end-product. Expression is used mainly for the extraction of citrus oils.
Extracion: is the process of removing raw materials from plant and animal substances through the use of various solvents. Most of the valuable natural fragrance materials are produced in this manner.
Extrait: generally, means the most concentrated form of perfume sold over the counter. It is a solution of 15 % -30 % perfume oil in high-grade alcohol.
Fatty: is the same name for the odor that suggests oil, lard, wax and so on. In small doses, these notes are reminiscent of the smell of human skin. They can therefore contribute to the erotic effect of a scent.
Femme: In the context of perfumery, femininity is a quality that is judged subjectively. Any perfume that underlines the womanly attributes of its wearer can be termed feminine, though much depends on the rapport between fragrance and user. Perfumes with floral accents are generally considered to be especially feminine. Of course, this does not prevent women from using scents that are considered to have a masculine character, but the majority uses those with feminine characteristics.
Fixing: is a process that promotes the retention of the fragrance on the skin as long as possible. To achieve this, heavy, non-volatile substances are used which develop their full fragrance intensities only very slowly, and maintain them for longer periods. Substances are also used for this purpose which have no strong odors of their own, but have the ability to make other fragrances last longer. Good substantivity is a characteristic of every well-constructed fragrance composition. It should be noted that an excessive amount of fixative in a perfume is no guarantee of good retention, because substances can hinder one another in their fragrance diffusion.
Floral: Today, over half of the branded perfumes are characterized by the adjective "floral." They contain well-defined flower notes (lily of the valley, for example, as in DIORISSIMO by Christian Dior), or a whole bouquet of floral effects, as in QUELQUES FLEURS by Houbigant. As a matter of fact, all perfumes contain floral notes in some quantity.
Floral-Fruity: perfumes are those that have a noticeably fruity element, especially in the top note, as an accessory to the main theme, which is always floral. Excesses of fruitiness are to be avoided as they would suggest food-flavor rather than perfume.
Formula: The formula of a perfume compound gives full details of its components-quality and quantity wise-and is used like a recipe for preparing the mixture. To formulate a perfume can take many, many years of experiments. Formulas, holding a company's Know How, is jealously-guarded trade secrets, sometimes handed down from generation to generation.
Fougere: is a fantasy term in perfumery. It is the name of a combination of fresh herbaceous lavender notes on a mossy foundation. Fougere notes occur in many fantasy fragrances-especially in masculine perfumes.
Fragrance Blotters: are narrow strips of absorbent paper about 15 centimeters long with which scent samples are taken and smelled. On smelling strips, the evaporation of fragrance materials and perfume oils can be observed in the different phases they go through. Final judgement of a perfume must always be made on the skin, however.
Fragance Components (Ingredients): All the materials which the perfumers put together to form a perfume composition are known as fragrance components. These are uniform chemical substances, natural products and simple or complex mixtures - the so-called bases and specialties.
Fragrance Diffusion: Fragrance development is the general behavioral pattern of a perfume in the hands of its user. A good perfume should perform three functions. These are:
* Immediate impact on opening the bottle.
* Noticeable emanation from the skin in all phases of fragrance evaporation.
* Noticeable scent in the area that surrounds the user.
Fragrance Material: The fragrance material industry is a branch of the chemical industry. This industry includes the producers of natural and synthetic fragrance materials and perfume oils. The fragrance material industry is a supplier to the manufacturers of perfumes, cosmetics and other products of this nature.
Fragrance Materials, Natural: are products of plant and animal origin, extracted by different processes. Some examples are essential oils, absolutes, concretes, resins, balsams and tinctures.
Synthetic Fragrance Materials: are produced from chemical raw materials. Half-synthetic fragrance zaterials are chemically-processed isolates from natural products.
Fragrance Organ: is the term for the working area of the perfumer, in which the fragrance materials he uses in his work are arranged around him in tiers, like the pipes of an organ around an organist.
Fresh: in relation to the effect of a perfume, is a subjective feeling that can be caused by different fragrance impressions. In European regions, freshness is generally associated with lemon, lavender and green notes, light floral components: light and clear elements, mostly. In other regions, North America for example, sweet and powdery perfumes are also considered as fresh.
Fruity: is the fragrance impression of natural fruit odors, such as raspberry, apple, plum, etc. Their sensual role in perfumery is only to produce nuances. However, single fruit odors do become fashionable, from time to time, in such products as shampoos. Exaggerated doses of fruit notes give perfumes the effect of being "edible," i.e. the opposite of erotic.
Gas Chromatograph: is an instrument for the analysis of organic chemical mixtures. In a spiral ass or metal column, packed with porous material, the various components are separated according to physical properties such as polarity ad vapor pressure. The signals received are amplified and, with the help of a printer, printed onto a chromatogram.
Grasse: is a town in Southern France, behind the Riviera. The town has a editerranean climate, which is well-suited for the cultivation of plants that produce perfume raw materials. For many years, Grasse has been one of the principal centers in the world for the production of perfume materials.
Green: is the general term for the odors of grass, leaves, stems and so on. Green fragrances exist in many different nuances. They are widely used in perfumery for the purpose of giving special accents to top-notes.
Harmony: is the tuning of all the components of a perfume so that no single element in any phase of the fragrance evaporation becomes so prominent that it could be considered unpleasant. It is easy to achieve harmony between similarsmelling substances but quite difficult between the contrasting elements which are often introduced into a perfume to give originality and character. Bringing these warring elements into harmony is a challenging task for the perfumer.
Hay-Like: notes are used mainly in "Nature" fragrances, in different ranges of application-for instance, in medicinal bath-products. Masculine perfumes also can contain hay-like components (Fougere). The synthetic substance with a hay-like odor that is most important in the industry is coumarin.
Herbaceous: Many fragrance substances have herbaceous components, and are reminiscent of herbs and drugs. Well-known, and often-used examples are mugwort, sage, rosemary and lavender. Herbaceous accents are widely used in masculine perfumes. Heart or Middle Note: The heart is the second, middle phase of a perfume's fragrance evaporation, occuring after the top note fades away. It is mainly produced by floral, spicy or woody components and represents, as its name indicates, the heart of the perfume.
Heavy: Fragrances in which the least-volatile ingredients such as mosses and animal notes dominate are called heavy perfumes. Since these ingredients are part of the top note, a heavy perfume can be identified as such at first impact. Heavy substances are used predominantly in chypre notes.
Infusion: is the production of flower oils by extraction at 65 degrees centigrade with the use of alcohol.
Ingredient: An ingredient is one of the parts that go to make up a mixture.
Intensity: The intensity, or fragrance strength of a perfume compound is dependent on the strength of the individual ingredients, and the skill that is exerted in the blending of these components.
Jasminey: Perfumes that contain the scent of the jasmine blossom as a principal component are termed jasminey. There are many interpretations of the jasmine note, which range from natural blossom odors to stylized, fantasy bases.
Lavender Oil: possesses a dry-fresh, herbaceous odor. It is used in many perfumes, especially in masculine notes.
Leather Notes: as well as tobacco notes, play a significant part in the masculine perfumes. Both natural expressions and fantasy interpretations of this theme exist and are used in the perfume industry. Leather notes also play a part in feminine perfumes; for instance, in the chypre family.
Light: perfume notes owe their character mainly to fresh, citrus, floral, fruity and green components. They contain practically no sweet, balsamic or sultry elements. It used to be difficult, but today, the perfumer has the means to give good fixation also to perfumes of light character.
Maceration: is a procedure by which blossom oils are extracted with the aid of warm fats. It is similar to enfleurage.
Masculine: as well as feminine, in the perfume sense, are subjective fragrance impressions. Normally, the term "masculine," is applied to fragrance favored by men. These contain dry notes of tobbaco, spices, mosses and woods. They are generally less floral than feminine perfumes, and often contain a high percentage of fresh ingredients. In the past few years, masculine and feminine notes have come closer and closer together.
Maturity: A perfume must mature for four to eight week,. before it can go on sale. This time is necessary tc allow the individual ingredients to blend, bringing the fragrance to its full development.
Metallic: notes are used in perfumes to produce cool, clean effects. They are used in nuances, and very seldom occur dominantly.
Mint-Like: Fragrance notes which are reminiscent of peppermint and spearmint are used in perfumery to produce special fresh effects in the top-note.
Mixing plant: The stage in the production of perfume in which the concentrated perfume oils are mixed, on a large scale, according to the perfumer's recipe, is known as the mixing or compounding plant.
Modifying: means varying an existing, basic fragrance theme by changing some ingredients or introducing new, additional nuances. The result may impress a lay-person as a new perfume, but the expert will recognize a mere variation on an old theme.
Mossy: odors of different kinds of tree mosses (especially oak moss) play an important part in nearly all perfume types. They are of special significance in the chypre notes. Mossy nuances are very complex and can have, besides the basic moss element, algae-like, leathery, woody and other characteristics. Their especially good fixing qualities, as well as their ability to give fragrances substance and depth, make them indispensable.
Musk: is a secretion of the musk deer. The material extracted from musk-sacs has a strong animal-smell. The natural product, as well as chemicals with musk-like odors, are of great significance in the perfume industry. They give perfumes a warm, erotic note and have outstanding fixing characteristics. Perfumes that are based on musk notes are especially subject to fashionable trends.
Napthalene-Like: notes are reminiscent of mothballs. These odors are found in animal products. Their significance in perfumery is minimal.
Narcotic: perfumes often contain high percentages of heavy blossom fragrances (jasmine, tuberose, for example), and animalic components. The narcotic effect of natural flower scents is at its peak at the time when they fade. Careful dosing of "narcotic" components is necessary if a perfume is not to have an obtrusive or tiring effect.
Nauncers: are fragrance materials that are not the main fragrance carriers in a composition, but are used to support and round these carriers off, or produce special effects which contribute to the all around picture of a fragrance. Obtrusive: Perfumes can be obtrusive when they are used to excess. Similarly, an ingredient can obtrude if the fragrance composition is not well balanced.
Oriental: is the term for perfumes containing ingredients that are reminiscent of fragrances from the East. Such ingredients can be exotic blossom notes, spices, balsams, resins, and animalic components. The character of the Oriental perfumes is such that they are mostly used as so-called winter or evening perfumes.
Perfume: "per fumum" - comes from the Latin, meaning "through the smoke." In ancient times, fragrant resins were burned as incense offerings that was the origin. Today, we understand perfume to be a solution containing 15% to 30% perfume oils and 85% to 70% alcohol, respectively.
Perfume Oil or Perfume Compound: Perfume oil is a concentrated mixture of fragrance substances, which is used for the perfuming of various products.
Perfumer: is the term for the creator of fragrance compositions. His qualifications are: an odormemory which is the result of long training, the ability to differentiate between hundreds of odors, knowledge of the reciprocal action of individual fragrance substances in the composition, and creative talent. The perfumer's education generally lasts for five years.
Pheromones: are chemical substances, which make communication possible between living beings. They are mainly significant as a medium which insects use for sexual attraction. Most pheromones are odorless to human beings.
Pomade: is a substance that is produced through the effleurage process. In this procedure, animal fat is saturated with blossom fragrance. The mixture of fat and blossom oil is the pomade. It is either used straight or processed into absolute from pomade. Parts of the fatty odor attach to the fragrance of the blossom oils, giving the products made by this process a unique character.
Powdery: is the fragrance effect produced by the interaction of long lasting, mossy, woody, sweet and crystalline elements. Many perfumes leave a powdery overall impression after evaporation of the fresh and floral ingredients.
Resinoids: are extracts from resins or plant parts (except for the blossom). In addition to the essential oils, they contain ingredients such as the waxes and resins, which are soluble in whatever solvent is being used in the particular process. In order to facilitate the use of resinoids, high-boiling, odorless solvents are often added to them. Resinoids often have a dark color and especially good fixing properties.
Resins: are mainly solid or semi-solid organic plant secretions. They must go through a cleaning process.
Rounding-Off: means harmonizing and binding together the principal ingredients of a perfume, either with odorants that are closely related odor-wise, or with other adjuncts that also fit into the picture and can therefore help to produce a balanced, harmonious whole.
Sensory Adaptation: is the tendency of the human sense of smell to become less and less able to perceive a particular fragrance the longer it is exposed to it. When the sense of smell is "adapted" to a fragrance, it is no longer able to recognize it. Yet it recovers quickly from this fatigue.
Sensual: is the term for a perfume with an erotically stimulating effect. An accentuated portion of animalic components and exotic blossom notes is usually to be found in such perfumes. Properly used, many perfumes can produce pleasant emotions and moods, since the sense of smell is directly connected with the part of the brain in which feelings and sexual behavior are controlled.
Smell: is the sensory perception of odorous organic compounds. It occurs in the act of inhaling, and so air is the carrier.
Smoky: notes are used mainly in masculine perfumes to create natural leather effects. In modern leather notes the smoky notes are thrust into the background by animalic notes but the old, classical leather perfumes contain noticeable smoky notes, which originate from birch tar oil.
Solvents: are liquids, virtually odor- and colorless, used in perfumery for the dilution of perfume oils. The most commonly used solvent is ethyl alcohol. Some solvents also have fixative properties.
Sour: A perfume is said to smell sour when it has aged prematurely owing to inappropriate storage. When this happens, chemical alterations occur which are irreversible, and the perfume must be considered "off."
Spicy: fragrance notes are used in the perfume industry in the form of essential oils from almost all the well-known spices. For example, cinnamon and clove are used widely in Oriental perfumes. Many masculine perfumes contain portions of spice-oils-for example: marjoram, coriander and pepper.
Splash Cologne: is light, watery alcohol/perfume oil solution of 1%-3% perfume oil in 99%-97% alcohol, respectively. They are used generously, for refreshment for the whole body, after the shower or bath for example. They have a subtle perfuming effect, and the notes are fresh and clean. Some countries especially favor this application, and two prime examples are France and Spain.
Stability: is a perfume's resistance to the harmful effects of light and oxygen. In proper storage (protected from light at room temperature, closed bottle) perfumes keep an average of six months without deterioration. Many keep for a much longer period.
Substantivity: The lasting properties of a fragrance are dependent on its degree of volatility. Heavy, nonvolatile substances are used for the fixing of perfume compositions.
Sweet: elements exist in many perfumes, in differing amounts, especially in Oriental and heavy chypre perfumes. The best-known example of a sweet-smelling natural product is the extract of the vanilla bean.
Tincure: is cold-processed alcoholic extract from natural products. They were much favored in former times, but their use today is on the decline for economic reasons.
Tobacco Notes: natural and synthetic, are predominantly used in masculine perfumes. In addition to the pure tobacco note, scents such as honey and plum, which are used to flavor tobacco, also play a part.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: is an oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, which is one of today's most dynamic natural skin care ingredients. It has been clinically shown to reverse photo aging (wrinkles and age spots) and boost the skin's collagen production for smoother and firmer skin. In addition, Vitamin C inhibits UVA and UVB radiation-induced damage, also resulting in younger looking skin.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E): is an antioxidant derived from plant oils.
Wheat Germ Extract: used in cosmetics because of its large Vitamin E content. This extract is obtained from the wheat kernel embryo separated in milling.
Witch Hazel Extract: a natural extract from the Hamamelis plant, fights free radicals. It is also non-drying, soothing and has astringent properties.
Xanthan Gum: A natural wax is a carrier agent and thickener.
Zinc Oxide: has been used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin. It provides an excellent barrier to the sun and other irritants. It is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial. When used in sunscreen preparations, it can contribute to and/or increase SPF. It has UVA and UVB absorption characteristics. Zinc Oxide is obtained from zinc ore, a commonly found mineral, and is relatively non allergenic. 2-Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate), derived from balsam of Peru, cocoa leaves, cinnamon leaves and storax trees, is a sunscreen with superior UV absorption capability. 2-Ethylhexyl Salicylate (octyl salicylate) is a sunscreen for UVB absorption.
Tips For Wearing Perfume
* When you apply perfumes, apply them to pulse points such as the folds in the crook of your elbow, back of knees, wrist and neck.
* Make sure you do not rub wrists together as this crushes the smell.
* If you want to keep your perfume as fresh as the day you bought it, keep the bottle in a cool, dark place.
* Go for lighter scents during the hotter weather and keep the stronger scents for the drier, cool weather. Keep bottles tightly stopped, away from direct heat and out of sunlight.
* Try spraying perfume on the air and walk into it, to have a head to toe experience.
* People with oily skin tend to have stronger fragrance as compared to those with dry skin.
* Apply perfume right after you shower. Your pores will be open and your skin will be warm.
* Some perfumes come in blue or opaque bottles and these store perfume well.
Lack of vitamin D causes fragile bones: Study
Most patients with vitamin D deficiency were found to have a history of fragile bones that exposed them to the risk of osteopororis, according to a study.
The bone disease not only affected adults, but also children. Vitamin D insufficiency may also contribute to low bone mass or even aggravate underlying metabolic bone disease.
Vitamin D is essential in bone growth and mineralization in children and adults. A mild deficiency causes rickets in children and can be overcome with increased amount of nutritional vitamin D intake as well as sun exposure.
The new study, conducted by US physicians, is the first to investigate vitamin D insufficiency in pediatric patients with low bone density.
Sasigarn Bowden, the study's co-author, explained: "We need to check vitamin D levels in all patients with history of multiple fractures or low bone density and treat the vitamin D problem if the levels are low. "The supplementation of vitamin D should be a priority in the management of pediatric patients with osteoporosis or osteopenia in order to optimize their bone health and potentially prevent fractures."
Potential factors that may account for vitamin D insufficiency in various chronic medical conditions include low vitamin D intake and decreased sun exposure.
Four studies in Europe found that 80 percent of healthy children and adolescents had insufficient vitamin D levels in the winter. The study has been published in the latest issue of the journal Paediatrics.
The bone disease not only affected adults, but also children. Vitamin D insufficiency may also contribute to low bone mass or even aggravate underlying metabolic bone disease.
Vitamin D is essential in bone growth and mineralization in children and adults. A mild deficiency causes rickets in children and can be overcome with increased amount of nutritional vitamin D intake as well as sun exposure.
The new study, conducted by US physicians, is the first to investigate vitamin D insufficiency in pediatric patients with low bone density.
Sasigarn Bowden, the study's co-author, explained: "We need to check vitamin D levels in all patients with history of multiple fractures or low bone density and treat the vitamin D problem if the levels are low. "The supplementation of vitamin D should be a priority in the management of pediatric patients with osteoporosis or osteopenia in order to optimize their bone health and potentially prevent fractures."
Potential factors that may account for vitamin D insufficiency in various chronic medical conditions include low vitamin D intake and decreased sun exposure.
Four studies in Europe found that 80 percent of healthy children and adolescents had insufficient vitamin D levels in the winter. The study has been published in the latest issue of the journal Paediatrics.
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